Compacted soil is one of the biggest hidden problems in UK lawns. When soil particles are squeezed together, there's no space for air or water to move through. Roots suffocate, grass weakens, and moss moves in. Aeration opens things up.

• Aerating when the soil is bone dry or waterlogged
• Only aerating once and expecting miracles
• Confusing spiking (solid tines) with core aeration (hollow tines)

Grass prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0 to 7.0). If your soil drops too acidic, nutrients get locked up and the grass can't access them, even if they're present in the soil. You'll see weak growth, yellowing, and moss taking over.

• Assuming moss means acidic soil (moss thrives in many conditions, not just low pH)
• Adding lime without testing first
• Over liming and pushing pH too high

High pH can lock up iron and other micronutrients, causing yellowing (chlorosis) even when you're feeding the lawn. Grass struggles to access what it needs.

• Adding lime to an already alkaline lawn (makes things worse)
• Ignoring regional soil tendencies

Poa annua is everywhere in UK lawns. It's shallow rooted, drought intolerant, and prone to disease (especially fusarium). It yellows and dies when conditions get tough, leaving bare patches.

• Trying to remove it all (nearly impossible)
• Not understanding why it keeps coming back (it produces seed constantly)
• Ignoring it until it dominates

Get this wrong and you'll either waste product and burn your lawn (too much) or see no results (too little). Fertiliser burn is real and ugly.

• Guessing instead of measuring
• Not knowing your lawn's actual size
• Assuming "a bit extra won't hurt"

Autumn is arguably the most important season for UK lawn care. It's when you can repair damage, overseed, aerate, and feed to set the lawn up for winter and the following spring.

• Missing the window by starting too late
• Skipping autumn feeding
• Not overseeding thin areas before winter

Bare soil is an invitation for weeds and moss. The longer it stays bare, the harder it is to reclaim.

• Just throwing seed down without preparing the soil
• Not addressing what caused the bare spot in the first place
• Seeding at the wrong time of year

Bentgrass produces beautiful lawns but demands higher maintenance. It's prone to thatch buildup and several diseases. Most domestic seed mixes contain little or no bent.

• Expecting bent to thrive with minimal care
• Letting thatch build up unchecked
• Using bent heavy mixes without understanding the maintenance required

Fusarium patch, dollar spot, take all patch, anthracnose.

Broadleaf weeds compete with grass for light, water, and nutrients. They spoil the uniform look of a lawn and can spread quickly if left unchecked.

• Using a selective herbicide at the wrong time
• Expecting instant results from weed killer
• Not addressing why weeds are thriving (often thin, weak grass)

Without calibration, you're guessing. You might apply double the recommended rate and burn stripes into your lawn, or apply half and wonder why nothing's happening.

• Trusting the spreader settings without testing
• Not accounting for walking speed
• Using the same setting for different products

Yellow grass isn't just ugly. It's a sign the plant can't photosynthesise properly. Left uncorrected, it weakens and becomes vulnerable to disease and invasion by weeds and moss.

• Assuming all yellowing is nitrogen deficiency (could be iron, pH issues, or disease)
• Over applying nitrogen without checking the real cause
• Ignoring soil pH which can lock up nutrients

Clay is common across much of the UK. It can be hard to work with because it's sticky when wet and rock hard when dry. Compaction is a constant battle, and waterlogging can suffocate roots in winter.

• Ignoring compaction
• Working the soil when it's wet (makes compaction worse)
• Not aerating regularly

Clover is divisive. Some people hate it and want it gone. Others deliberately include it because it fixes nitrogen from the air and feeds the lawn naturally. It also stays green in drought when grass goes brown.

• Using nitrogen fertiliser to kill clover (clover thrives in low nitrogen, adding nitrogen helps grass outcompete it)
• Spraying in the wrong conditions
• Not deciding what you actually want

Coarse grasses spoil the uniform look of a lawn. They don't respond to mowing the same way and can spread if left unchecked.

• Hoping they'll blend in (they won't)
• Using non selective herbicide and killing everything
• Not removing the root when digging out

Roots can't grow through compacted soil. Water sits on the surface instead of soaking in. Grass weakens, moss thrives, and the lawn struggles to recover from any stress.

• Underestimating how compacted your soil is
• Only aerating areas that look bad (the whole lawn probably needs it)
• Relying on spiking alone when hollow tining is needed

Provides steady feeding without the flush and fade of quick release products. Lower risk of burn and more consistent colour.

• Applying too often (overlapping applications can cause excess nitrogen buildup)
• Expecting instant results
• Not adjusting for temperature (release speeds up in heat)

Core aeration is more effective than solid tine spiking because it physically removes soil, creating space for air and water. The holes also allow top dressing material to work down into the root zone.

• Not going deep enough
• Aerating when soil is too wet (smears rather than cuts)
• Collecting cores when you should leave them to break down

Buttercup thrives in damp, compacted, or poorly drained soil. Its spreading habit means it can colonise large areas quickly.

• Only treating the visible plants without addressing drainage
• Hand weeding without getting all the runners
• Ignoring it and hoping it goes away

Daisies form low rosettes that escape mower blades. They spread by seed and can quickly populate thin lawns.

• Mowing short and thinking that'll kill them (it won't, they grow flat)
• Not treating at the right time
• Ignoring them until they've seeded everywhere

Dandelions are tough. That deep root stores energy and makes them hard to remove by hand. The seed heads distribute thousands of seeds on the wind.

• Pulling them without getting the whole root
• Waiting until they've seeded
• Not treating when actively growing

Shallow, frequent watering creates shallow roots. When drought hits, shallow rooted grass dies first. Deep watering once or twice a week is better than a little bit every day.

• Watering every day for 10 minutes (keeps roots at the surface)
• Not checking how deep the water penetrates
• Watering in the evening and leaving grass wet overnight

Some thatch is good. It cushions the lawn and retains moisture. Too much thatch (more than 10 to 15mm) prevents water and nutrients reaching the soil, harbours disease, and creates a spongy surface.

• Dethatching too aggressively
• Doing it at the wrong time of year
• Confusing American "dethatching" with UK scarification

Understanding dormancy explains why your lawn behaves differently at different times of year.

• Panicking when the lawn slows in winter or midsummer
• Fertilising dormant grass heavily
• Comparing UK lawns to American warm season lawns in winter

Our grass slows dramatically in winter (cold dormancy) and can also slow in midsummer heat waves (heat stress, not true dormancy but close). It stays green through winter, just doesn't grow much.

Bermuda, zoysia, and other warm season grasses go fully dormant and turn brown when temperatures drop. This is normal for those grasses but alarming if you expect year round green.

Mild drought stress is uncomfortable for the lawn but survivable. Severe or prolonged drought can kill grass, especially shallow rooted varieties and Poa annua.

• Watering a little bit every day instead of deeply and less often
• Fertilising during drought (puts extra stress on the plant)
• Panicking and overwatering when rain finally comes

Crisp edges make a lawn look instantly more polished, even if the rest isn't perfect. Neglected edges look scruffy and allow grass to creep into borders.

• Going too deep or too far back each time
• Not maintaining edges regularly (easier to touch up monthly than renovate annually)
• Using string trimmers carelessly and scalping the edges

Newly seeded grass is vulnerable. It needs consistent moisture, protection from heavy use, and careful mowing until established. Rushing this phase leads to thin, patchy results.

• Walking on new grass too soon
• Letting it dry out during germination
• Mowing before it's ready

Ferrous sulphate gives a rapid green up (sometimes within days) without pushing soft growth like nitrogen. It blackens moss on contact and can help harden grass going into winter.

• Applying too much and burning the grass
• Not watering in properly (especially in dry conditions)
• Using it to kill moss without raking out the dead moss afterwards
• Walking on treated areas and tracking black marks onto paths and patios

Severe burn can kill grass outright. Even mild burn sets the lawn back and looks terrible while it recovers.

• Not calibrating the spreader
• Overlapping passes without accounting for it
• Applying granular fertiliser to wet grass (granules stick to leaves)
• Using more than the recommended rate

Fine fescues are shade tolerant, drought tolerant, and create a fine textured lawn. They're often mixed with perennial ryegrass. Tall fescue is tougher with wider blades, sometimes used for hard wearing areas.

• Expecting fine fescue to handle heavy traffic (it's not as robust as ryegrass)
• Not understanding the different types and their uses
• Mowing too short (fescues prefer slightly higher cuts)

Red thread, dollar spot (fine fescues). Tall fescue is generally more disease resistant.

Foliar feeding gives rapid results because nutrients bypass the soil pathway. Useful for quick green up or correcting micronutrient deficiencies.

• Applying in full sun or heat (can burn leaves)
• Using too concentrated a mix
• Thinking it replaces root feeding entirely

Successful germination requires the right combination of moisture, temperature, and seed to soil contact. Get these wrong and you'll have poor results.

• Letting the seedbed dry out
• Burying seed too deep (most grass seed needs light to germinate)
• Sowing when soil is too cold

Cheap seed often has lower germination rates, so you need more of it to achieve the same coverage. Old seed deteriorates and germinates poorly.

• Buying cheap seed with poor germination rates
• Using old seed that's been sitting in the shed for years
• Not adjusting sowing rate for seed quality

Granular fertiliser is easy to handle, store, and apply evenly with the right equipment. Available in quick release and slow release formulations.

• Applying to wet grass (granules stick to leaves and burn)
• Not watering in afterwards
• Uneven application from poor spreader technique

Green up is the signal that your lawn is ready for the growing season. It's the time to start regular mowing and the first feed of the year.

• Feeding before the grass is actually growing
• Expecting instant results on cold soil
• Cutting too short too soon

Growing degree days are more accurate than calendar dates for timing treatments because they account for actual conditions rather than assumptions.

• Following calendar based schedules rigidly regardless of actual weather
• Not understanding that a warm February followed by cold March throws timing off

Most lawn care tasks (feeding, seeding, herbicide application) should happen during active growth when the grass can respond and recover.

• Trying to reseed in winter
• Applying weed killer to dormant weeds
• Feeding heavily outside the growing season

This is the most effective form of aeration for relieving compaction. The removed cores create genuine space in the soil rather than just pushing it aside.

• Not going deep enough
• Doing it when soil is too wet (creates a mess)
• Collecting the cores instead of letting them break down

Iron deficiency causes chlorosis (yellowing). Applied iron gives rapid green up without the growth flush of nitrogen, making it useful for colour correction and winter hardening.

• Applying too much and burning the lawn
• Not checking soil pH (high pH locks up iron)
• Confusing nitrogen deficiency with iron deficiency

In dry periods, irrigation can keep lawns green and healthy when rainfall fails. However, most established UK lawns survive without irrigation in typical years.

• Watering too frequently and too lightly
• Evening watering that leaves grass wet overnight (promotes disease)
• Not checking actual soil moisture before watering

Kentucky bluegrass has excellent recovery ability due to its spreading habit. It fills in damage that ryegrass and fescue cannot repair without reseeding.

• Expecting it to establish as quickly as ryegrass (it's slower)
• Not realising it needs full sun to thrive
• Buying American seed not suited to UK conditions

Rust, leaf spot, summer patch. Slower to establish than ryegrass.

If your soil is too acidic, grass can't access nutrients properly. Lime corrects this. However, applying lime to soil that doesn't need it can push pH too high and cause different problems.

• Applying lime without a soil test
• Expecting instant results (takes months to work)
• Over applying

Liquid feeds give rapid results because nutrients are immediately available. Useful for quick boosts and micronutrient applications.

• Mixing too concentrated
• Applying in full sun or heat
• Thinking liquid feeds replace granular entirely

If you have loamy soil, consider yourself lucky. It's easier to grow a great lawn on loam than on heavy clay or pure sand.

• Assuming you have loam when you don't
• Not maintaining organic matter levels

Without adequate macronutrients, grass cannot grow, develop strong roots, or resist stress. They're the foundation of any feeding programme.

• Only focusing on NPK and ignoring calcium, magnesium, and sulphur
• Assuming all fertilisers are the same
• Not adjusting ratios for seasonal needs

Without magnesium, grass can't produce chlorophyll efficiently. Deficiency shows as yellowing, particularly between leaf veins, and dull colour.

• Overlooking magnesium when troubleshooting yellow grass
• Not including it in feeding programmes
• Excessive potassium application (competes with magnesium uptake)

Deficiencies in micronutrients can limit growth even when macronutrients are adequate. Iron deficiency is the most common, causing chlorosis.

• Ignoring micronutrients completely
• Over applying and causing toxicity
• Not considering soil pH which affects availability

Moss is a symptom, not a cause. It indicates underlying problems like shade, compaction, poor drainage, low fertility, or acidic soil.

• Killing moss without fixing the underlying problem (it just comes back)
• Not raking out dead moss after treatment
• Thinking one treatment solves the issue

Moss killer removes existing moss but doesn't prevent regrowth. Must be followed by raking out the dead moss and addressing underlying causes.

• Applying and leaving dead moss in place (it holds moisture and provides a seedbed for more moss)
• Using it as the complete solution
• Applying in hot, dry conditions

Mowing height affects root depth, drought tolerance, weed competition, and disease resistance. Cut too short and you stress the lawn. Cut too long and it can become thatchy and weak.

• Setting the mower as low as it goes
• Not adjusting height seasonally
• Taking off more than one third of the blade in a single cut

Mulching can return up to 25% of nitrogen back to the lawn naturally. It reduces waste, saves time on emptying boxes, and feeds the soil.

• Mulching when the grass is too long (leaves clumps)
• Mulching wet grass (doesn't cut cleanly)
• Assuming you need a special mower (many rotaries can mulch with a kit)

Without adequate nitrogen, grass turns pale, grows slowly, and becomes thin. Weeds and moss move in. Too much nitrogen causes rapid, soft growth prone to disease.

• Under feeding (lawn stays thin and weak)
• Over feeding (lush growth that's disease prone)
• Heavy nitrogen application late in autumn (promotes fusarium)

Different ratios suit different purposes. High nitrogen for spring growth, higher potassium for autumn hardening, higher phosphorus for new lawns establishing roots.

• Using the same ratio year round
• Ignoring the ratio and just buying cheapest
• Not understanding what each nutrient does

Deficiencies limit growth regardless of how well you do everything else. Identifying and correcting them is essential for a healthy lawn.

• Assuming all yellowing is nitrogen deficiency
• Not testing soil to confirm
• Over correcting and causing imbalances

Cutting more than a third shocks the grass, depletes energy reserves, exposes soil to light (promoting weeds), and can lead to scalping damage.

• Letting the lawn get overgrown then scalping it back
• Not adjusting mowing frequency to match growth rate
• Ignoring the rule because "it'll grow back"

Organic matter improves soil structure, water retention, nutrient availability, and supports beneficial microbial life. Healthy soil has at least 3 to 5% organic matter.

• Ignoring soil health and focusing only on grass
• Not adding organic material through top dressing or compost
• Removing all clippings and never returning any

Regular overseeding maintains density, introduces improved cultivars, and crowds out weeds and moss. A thick lawn is a healthy lawn.

• Broadcasting seed on top without preparation
• Not ensuring seed to soil contact
• Overseeding at the wrong time

Perennial ryegrass forms the backbone of most UK lawns. It germinates in 5 to 10 days, establishes quickly, and handles foot traffic well.

• Using cheap seed with old or agricultural cultivars
• Not understanding it doesn't spread (bunch type, needs overseeding to fill gaps)
• Mowing too short

Red thread, rust, leaf spot. Generally robust but can suffer in drought.

Soil pH affects nutrient availability. Most UK lawn grasses prefer pH 6.0 to 7.0. Outside this range, nutrients become locked up and unavailable even if present in the soil.

• Not testing before adding lime or sulphur
• Expecting pH changes to happen quickly
• Ignoring pH as a factor in lawn problems

Phosphorus promotes strong root systems, which means better drought tolerance and nutrient uptake. Critical for new lawns and overseeding.

• Ignoring phosphorus in starter and autumn feeds
• Over applying (can build up to excess in soil)
• Not realising established lawns need less than new lawns

Plantain thrives in compacted soil and tolerates close mowing. Its flat growth habit lets it survive where upright plants get cut off.

• Assuming mowing will control it
• Not addressing the compaction that helps it thrive
• Hand pulling without getting the root

Potassium hardens grass against drought, frost, disease, and wear. Higher potassium feeds are ideal for autumn to prepare lawns for winter.

• Neglecting potassium and focusing only on nitrogen
• Not adjusting ratios for autumn
• Over applying (can inhibit magnesium uptake)

Pre emergents are common in American lawn care, especially for crabgrass prevention. Less commonly used in UK domestic lawns.

• Applying and then overseeding (it stops grass seed germinating too)
• Timing application wrong
• Expecting it to kill existing weeds (it won't)

Post emergent herbicides are the standard weed control method for UK lawns. They target visible weeds like dandelions, clover, and daisies.

• Applying when weeds aren't actively growing
• Mowing immediately before or after application
• Expecting instant death (takes days to weeks)

Quick release feeds give rapid green up and fast response, useful for correcting deficiencies or preparing for events. Effects are dramatic but short lived.

• Applying too much (high burn risk)
• Not watering in properly
• Expecting results to last for months

Everything important happens in the root zone. Nutrient uptake, water absorption, anchorage, and interaction with soil organisms all occur here. A deep, healthy root zone means a resilient lawn.

• Shallow watering that keeps roots near the surface
• Compaction that physically prevents root growth
• Scalping that depletes energy reserves and weakens roots

Sandy soil needs more frequent feeding because nutrients leach through. Watering is needed more often in dry spells. But it rarely compacts like clay.

• Using slow release fertiliser at the same rates as clay (may leach before being used)
• Not watering enough in dry weather
• Assuming it needs no attention because it drains well

This one's like Marmite. You either love it or hate it.

• Scalping too early in the season before growth has started
• Going too low and hitting soil or crowns
• Scalping wet grass
• Expecting UK grass to bounce back like American Bermuda

Removes dead material, exposes soil to warmth and light, encourages fresh tillering, can reset a lawn after winter. Some gardeners swear by a spring scalp to kickstart the season.

Stresses the grass, exposes soil to weed seeds, risks damaging the crown of the plant if done too aggressively or too early. Our cool season grasses don't recover as vigorously as warm season types.

In warm season climates (Bermuda, zoysia), scalping is standard practice. Those grasses go completely dormant and brown in winter, storing energy in roots and stolons. A hard spring scalp removes dead material and lets fresh growth emerge. They bounce back quickly because warm season grasses are built for it.

Our cool season grasses (ryegrass, fescue) don't store energy the same way and don't respond to scalping as well. If you scalp too early, too low, or when the grass isn't actively growing, you can set your lawn back weeks. Done wrong, you'll have a patchy, weedy mess.

Scarification opens up the lawn surface, removes dead material, improves air and water penetration, and creates an ideal environment for overseeding. It's a key renovation task.

• Scarifying too aggressively
• Doing it at the wrong time (avoid mid summer and winter)
• Not overseeding afterwards to fill the gaps
• Expecting the lawn to look good immediately (it'll look worse before it looks better)

The right mix for your conditions makes a huge difference. Shade tolerant mixes for shady gardens, hard wearing mixes for kids and dogs, fine lawn mixes for ornamental use.

• Buying the cheapest mix without checking contents
• Using the wrong mix for your conditions
• Not understanding what species are in the mix

This is how you remove weeds without destroying your lawn. Non selective herbicides (like glyphosate) kill everything.

• Confusing selective with non selective
• Applying to newly seeded grass (can damage young plants)
• Applying in wrong conditions (too hot, too cold, too dry)

Shaded areas are challenging for lawns. Grass needs light to photosynthesise. In heavy shade, even tolerant varieties struggle.

• Expecting any grass to thrive in deep shade (it won't)
• Using the wrong seed mix for shaded areas
• Not addressing other factors that make shade worse (poor drainage, moss)

Slow release feeds provide consistent nutrition without the growth surges of quick release. Lower burn risk, fewer applications, steadier colour.

• Applying too frequently (overlapping releases cause excess)
• Expecting instant results
• Not accounting for temperature effects (release speeds up in heat)

Soil amendments can correct pH, improve drainage, reduce compaction, and increase nutrient availability. They're about improving the growing environment.

• Adding amendments without knowing what's needed
• Expecting instant results
• Not following up with ongoing maintenance

Without a soil test, you're guessing. Knowing your pH and nutrient levels lets you target your inputs effectively rather than applying everything and hoping for the best.

• Never testing and guessing instead
• Testing once and never again
• Taking samples incorrectly

Solid tine aeration is less disruptive than hollow tining and can be done more frequently. Good for maintaining aeration between more thorough hollow tine treatments.

• Thinking it's as effective as hollow tining (it's not)
• Relying on it exclusively for heavily compacted soil
• Not understanding the difference

Spring flush is when your lawn explodes with growth. Mowing frequency needs to increase, and it's the time to get your first feed down.

• Not being ready for the sudden growth surge
• Mowing too short trying to reduce mowing frequency
• Missing the feeding window

Stripes are purely aesthetic but make a lawn look polished and well maintained. Achieved with a rear roller on the mower or a separate roller.

• Using a rotary without a roller and expecting stripes
• Mowing in the same pattern every time (creates wear patterns)
• Prioritising stripes over lawn health

Sulphur is often overlooked but plays a key role in how grass uses nitrogen. Deficiency can cause yellowing similar to nitrogen deficiency.

• Not including sulphur in feeding programmes
• Using sulphur to lower pH without testing first

A thin layer (under 10mm) is beneficial. It cushions the lawn and retains moisture. Thick thatch (over 15mm) prevents water and nutrients reaching the soil, harbours disease and pests, and creates a spongy surface.

• Ignoring thatch buildup
• Thinking mulching clippings causes thatch (it doesn't significantly)
• Not scarifying regularly

Tillering is how grass thickens up naturally. Encouraging tillering creates a dense lawn that resists weeds and wear.

• Mowing too short (reduces energy for tillering)
• Not feeding adequately
• Scalping and damaging the crown where tillers emerge

Top dressing improves soil structure, levels minor surface imperfections, helps control thatch, and fills aeration holes. Over time, it can transform soil quality.

• Applying too thick a layer and smothering grass
• Using the wrong material for your soil type
• Not working it into the surface

Verticutting is highly effective at removing surface organic matter and preparing for overseeding. Common in professional turf management.

• Going too deep
• Not adjusting blade spacing for the task
• Doing it at the wrong time

Wilting is an early warning sign of drought stress. Grass typically shows a bluish grey colour and footprints remain visible after walking across.

• Ignoring early wilt signs
• Watering too late when damage is done
• Shallow watering that doesn't help